Aus den Gewölben einer Benediktinerabtei zum Prunkgenuss des viktorianischen Zeitalters. Zurückgeworfen durch Kriege und Krisen und dennoch ungebrochen begehrt – der Champagner!
Das flüssige Gold geniesst weltweit einen ausgezeichneten Ruf. In gehobenen Gesellschaften, bei Staatsempfängen und zu besonderen Anlässen darf der Prickler aus dem Norden Frankreichs einfach nicht fehlen.
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Champagner – so darf sich nur ein Schaumwein nennen, der nach strengen Richtlinien im Weinbaugebiet Champagne ausgebaut und gekeltert wurde. Die Geschichte des Weinbaus in der Region geht auf die alten Römer zurück. Doch die Geburtsstunde des Champagners liess noch lange auf sich warten…
Erst in der zweiten Hälfte des 17. Jahrhunderts wurden die Weichen für den heute bekannten, prickelnden Traubensaft gestellt. So gelang es dem Mönch Dom Pérignon in der Benediktinerabtei Hautvillers ein bereits bekanntes Verfahren zur Flaschengärung massgeblich weiter zu entwickeln, was fortan ermöglichte Frische und Perlage dauerhaft in die Flasche zu bannen. Ein Mythos war geboren!
1. Dom Pérignon – Erfinder der Agraffe
Wie heute bekannt ist, war es wohl eher ein Zufall, der dem wohl bekanntesten Benediktinermönch aller Zeiten seine grosse Entdeckung bescherte.
Die chemischen Zusammenhänge der Flaschengärung konnten erst Mitte des 19. Jahrhunderts von Louis Pasteur erklärt werden.
Ganz sicher kein Zufall ist aber die Erfindung der Agraffe. Das verschnörkelt geflochtene Drahtgestell, das auch unter hohem Druck den Korken in Position halten soll, ist einer der Geniestreiche Pérignons, die seinen Mythos bis heute weiter leben lassen. So auch das Weisskeltern roter Reben und viele weitere Entwicklungen hin zum heutigen Nobelgetränk.
Leider unterlag die Qualität des Champagners immer noch dem Zufall und auch der Flaschentransport war bis in das Jahr 1728 verboten. Den grossen Durchbruch seiner Erfindung durfte der Urvater des Champagners nie erleben.
2. Das älteste Champagnerhaus der Welt
Mit der Aufhebung des Transportverbots von Champagner in Flaschen, war das Interesse der ansässigen Weinbauern geweckt. Schon 1729 gründete Nicolas Ruinart das erste Champagnerhaus der Welt, das noch heute besteht.
Seine Erzeugnisse fanden grossen Anklang in ganz Frankreich, die Beliebtheit des Champagners stieg rasant an. Zum internationalen Erfolg trugen neben Ruinart auch weitere Erzeuger bei, die noch heute einen exzellenten Ruf geniessen. Hierzu zählen renommierte Häuser wie Heidsieck, Moët, Perrier-Jouët und Bollinger.
Bis zum Ende des 18. Jahrhunderts sollte der Champagner zu den begehrtesten Tropfen Frankreichs zählen. Zahlreiche Fortentwicklungen – wie etwa der erste Rosé von Veuve Clicquot – begünstigten den Aufstieg.
3. Konsumexportschlager des viktorianischen Zeitalters
Mit dem 19. Jahrhundert begann die Blütezeit des Trendgetränks des Adels. Spätestens mit der Einführung der ab 1830 aufkommenden Flaschenetiketten, die mit künstlerischen Gestaltungsweisen aufwarteten, war die Markenetablierung perfekt.
So wurden bereits im Jahre 1882, als der kometenhafte Aufstieg der Beliebtheit des Champagners seinen vorläufigen Höhepunkt erreicht hatte, 36 Millionen Flaschen erzeugt. Gut dreiviertel dieser gewaltigen Masse ging ins Ausland – Grossbritannien und die USA zählten zu den grössten Abnehmern.
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Ebenso, wenn auch in geringerem Ausmass, importierten immer mehr europäische Staaten die prickelnden Nordfranzosen. Selbst in Deutschland, das zu jener Zeit eher zweifelhafte Beziehungen zur Grande Nation pflegte – schliesslich war es erst eine Dekade her als Otto von Bismarck im besiegten Paris das Deutsche Kaiserreich ausrief – wurde Champagner immer beliebter. Und auch das russische Zarrenhaus kredenzte den Prestigeschaumwein inzwischen mit Vorlieb.
4. Die Macht der Witwen
Doch nicht nur Etiketten, Markenbildung und verbesserte Transport- und letztendlich auch Exportbedingungen führten zum Siegeszug des Champagners.
Grosse Meilensteine in der Entwicklung kann man getrost den Damen der Branche zuschreiben.
Eine der berühmtesten: Barbe-Nicole Clicquot-Ponsardin. Die ‚Witwe Cliquot’ (franz. Veuve Clicquot) erfand nicht nur den ersten Rosé, sie machte Champagner zu dem wunderschön anzusehenden klaren Trunk, den wir heute kennen.
Das erste Rüttelpult und das typische Degorgierungsverfahren gehen auf sie zurück. So gelang es den im Flaschenhals angestauten Heferücksatz zu lösen und erstmals einen nicht naturtrüben Champagner auszubauen.
Den Erfindungsgeist führte eine weitere prominente Witwe fort. Die unter dem Namen Madame Pommery bekannte Winzersfrau zeichnete sich im Jahre 1874 verantwortlich für den ersten Champagner brut. Ein sehr herber Champagner, der den Zeitgeist exzellent zu treffen schien.
5. Champagner aus Luxemburg
Im Jahre 1885 entschied sich die Compagnie des Grands Vins de Champagne E. Mercier & Cie zu einem folgenreichen Schritt. Um der ständig wachsenden Nachfrage zu Zeiten der grossen Epoche des Champagners gerecht zu werden – aber auch um den deutschen Absatzmarkt günstiger beliefern zu können – verlegte man einen Teil der Produktion nach Luxemburg.
In mitten des Gebiets des Deutschen Zollvereins konnte nun noch günstiger exportiert werden. Noch mehr Europäer kamen in den Genuss ‚echten’ Champagners, wenn auch nicht aus der Champagne.
Folgenreich war dieser Schritt insofern, als es sich beim luxemburgischen Moselgebiet noch heute um die einzige Region aussserhalb Frankreichs handelt, die die Bezeichnung Crémant für Qualitätssekt mit Flaschengärung benutzen darf.
Doch so erfolgreich ging es für den edlen Schaumwein nicht weiter. In der zweiten Hälfte des 19. Jahrhunderts machte sich die Reblaus in den französischen Weinbaugebieten breit und erreichte schliesslich um 1895 die Champagne. Ein jähes Ende war gesetzt. Es dauerte viele Jahre bis sich die Region vollends erholt hatte.
6. Aufstand der kleinen Leute
Aber nicht nur die Reblaus machte der Region zu schaffen. In den Jahren 1909 und 1910 vernichtete der Mehltau nahezu die komplette Ernte der Region. Bis zu dieser Zeit waren die grossen Erzeuger noch auf Vertragswinzer angewiesen, von denen sie ihre Trauben bezogen. Die Ernteausfälle zwangen die Champagnerhäuser dazu, vermehrt Trauben von Weinbauern ausserhalb der Region zu kaufen.
Kleinere Winzer, Landwirte und einfache Arbeiter der Champagne sahen sich in den Ruin gedrängt und beschlossen, der Entwicklung nicht tatenlos zuzusehen. Sie probten den Aufstand. Bürgerkriegsähnliche Zustände suchten die Region heim.
Ob es nun die 40.000 Soldaten waren, die die Grande Nation in das nördliche Weinbaugebiet befehligte, oder doch eher die zahlreichen neuen Reglementierungen aus Paris, die auch die kleinen Winzer zu schützen schienen, die Aufstände konnten rasch beigelegt werden.
Rosige Zeiten waren dennoch nicht in Aussicht – die Urkatastrophe des 20. Jahrhunderts stand bereits in den Startlöchern.
7. Schaumwein zwischen Krieg, Revolution und Prohibition
Der Erste Weltkrieg zwang die Champagnerproduktion zusehends in die Knie. Der Norden Frankreichs war einer der Hauptaustragungsorte des deutsch-französischen Stellungskriegs. Normales Leben, Arbeiten, Ernten und Keltern waren kaum noch möglich.
Doch nicht nur das kriegerische Treiben zwischen Bergen und Reben forderte seinen Tribut. Als der Erste Weltkrieg sich dem Ende neigte, sorgten die Russische Revolution und die amerikanische Prohibition für neue Probleme. Zwei wichtige Absatzmärkte brachen ersatzlos weg.
8. Der Champagnerparagraph
Dennoch konnte mit dem Ende des Krieges ein wichtiger Schritt für den Schutz der Appellation und des Produkts erreicht werden.
Der Versailler Vertrag, der die Nachkriegsordnung festlegte und die deutsche Alleinschuld manifestierte, enthielt auch einen Champagnerparagraphen.
Aus diesem ging hervor, dass es deutschen Produzenten fortan verboten war, fremde Herkunftsbezeichnungen zu führen. Insbesondere waren Cognac und Champagner in den Fokus deutscher Erzeuger gerückt. Diesem Treiben wurde nun eine Abfuhr erteilt. Innereuropäische Konkurrenz hatte der Champagner in seiner Einzigartigkeit nicht mehr zu befürchten.
Auch wenn die Zukunft rosig zu sein schien, schnell erholte sich die Champagnerproduktion nicht. Da Not bekanntlich auch erfinderisch macht, lösten sich immer mehr Winzer von den grossen Häusern und gründeten ihre eigenen Familienbetriebe.
9. Wir brauchen einen Dachverband
Ein Grossteil der Betriebe, die in den 1920er Jahren entstanden sind, existieren heute noch und verleihen der Champagne – und letztendlich auch dem Champagner – den ganz individuellen und vielseitigen Charakter, der auf der ganzen Welt gepriesen wird.
Letztendlich führte diese Vielseitigkeit, aber auch ein retardierender französischer Wohlstand, zum erneuten Aufstieg in den 1930er Jahren. Die Champagnerproduktion stieg wieder auf das Level ihrer Hochzeit an.
Zu Zeiten der deutschen Besatzung im Zweiten Weltkrieg gründete sich das Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne. Ein Dachverband, der fortan die Interessen der vielen Erzeuger vertreten sollte.
Ausserdem sorgte die Beaufsichtigung der Produktion durch den Verband für eine gleichbleibend hohe Qualität. In der Nachbetrachtung ein weiterer Meilenstein, der sich in den kommenden Jahrzehnten bezahlt machen sollte.
10. Erneuter Aufstieg und Zaren-Champagner aus dem Meer
In der Nachkriegszeit wurde dem Champagner endlich die Aufmerksamkeit zuteil, auf die er fast 60 Jahre – geplagt von Krisen und Kriegen – verzichten musste. Der Absatz stieg scheinbar grenzenlos. Auf der ganzen Welt gehörte Champagner zu besonderen Anlässen fortan dazu. Auch als Essensbegleiter wurde das prickelnde Vergnügen aus der Region zwischen Aisne, Marne, Aube und Seine wiederentdeckt und erlebte eine Renaissance.
Heute ist der Stellenwert des noblen Schaumweins unbestritten. So ist es nicht nur die hohe Qualität und das bemerkenswerte Genusserlebnis, das ihm seinen Stellenwert verleiht. Vielmehr ist es auch die beeindruckende Geschichte, die den Champagner mit einem unsagbaren Prestige ausstattet.
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Getränke ausländischer Marken in Russland
Vorher berichteten wir über alkoholische Getränke ausländischer Marken, die in der ehemaligen Sowjetunion hergestellt werden, insbesondere über Portwein [1,2]. Die Produktion von Portwein wird weiter entwickelt [3], was im Hinblick auf seine Popularität nicht erstaunlich ist. Madeira (Madera) wird im Süden von Russland und der Ukraine hergestellt; sie schmeckt weitgehend wie das Original, doch kann, laut hinterer Etikette, mit „rektifiziertem Alkohol aus Nahrungsstoffen“ verstärkt werden, und nicht mit dem Weingeist. Außerdem werden die Imitationen vom Champagner und anderer bekannten Weine nach wie vor produziert. Cognac wird in einigen Staaten der ehemaligen Sowjetunion hergestellt. Calvados wurde im Nordkaukasus produziert [4]. Sherry (Jerez) aus der Krim wird in Moskau verkauft; es schmeckt ähnlich wie einige Sorten von Sherry aus Spanien, wirkt aber manchmal als ob es etwas verdünnt wäre. Noch ein Beispiel: Kadarka Wein aus Bulgarien wurde vor kurzem in Moskau verkauft. Während der Sowjetzeit war solcher Wein Gamza (гъмза) genannt; es wurde in großen Flaschen verkauft und war preiswert. Der Kadarka Wein kam ursprünglich aus Ungarn. Pinot Gris, wie auch viele andere Weinsorten, sind in Russland oft süßer und schmecken anders als in Westeuropa. Viele bekannte Biersorten schmecken hier anders, als im Ausland.
Herstellung der Getränke ausländischer Marken hatte in der ehemaligen Sowjetunion eine lange Geschichte. Zahlreiche Etiketten z.B. von Madeira aus dem Jahr 1954 oder Pinot Gris aus 1962, beide in der Krim hergestellt, sind in der Ausgabe [5] abgebildet. Einige Sorten von Champagner, Port, Madeira, Sherry u.a. waren hatten eine gute Qualität; unsere Bürger verzehrten diese Produkte, wenn die Einfuhr aus dem Westen spärlich war. Auf diese Weise haben unsere Verbraucher die ausländischen Marken kennengelernt und erkennen heute die Originale. Soweit es uns bekannt ist, werden in Westeuropa gemäß der vorgeschriebenen Herkunftsbezeichnung nur die Originalprodukte der genannten Marken verkauft. Das Problem wartet auf seine Lösung: unter welchen Namen und Etiketten können diese Produkte legitim produziert und verkauft werden. Unserer Meinung nach müssten internationale Abkommen abgeschlossen werden, die den Gebrauch solcher Marken wie der „Rissischer Champagner“ oder „Krim Madera“ regelten. Einige populäre Portweinsorten wurden in der Sowjetzeit nummeriert: z.B. Portwein 33 oder 72. Es könnte eine gute Idee sein, diese Marken weiterzuverwenden, unter der Bedingung einer Befolgung der originellen Formel, weil diese Weinsorten einen nostalgischen Wert haben. Es werden in der ehemaligen SU unter dem Namen „Portwein“ oft Surrogate verkauft [1,2]. Die Portimitationen können auch „Ruby“ oder „Tawny“ genannt werden; statt Champagner kann das entsprechende Produkt Brut oder Sekt heißen. Jedenfalls haben die Imitationen ihr Existenzrecht; vorausgesetzt, dass Verbraucher klar anhand der Etiketten zwischen Originalen und Nachahmungen unterscheiden können.
Literatur
1. Jargin SV. Jargin SV. Popular Alcoholic Beverages in Russia with Special Reference to Quality and Toxicity. J Addiction Prevention. 2017;5(2):6. DOI: 10.13188/2330-2178.1000041
2. Jargin SV. Minimal price for vodka established in Russia from 1 January 2010. Alcohol and Alcoholism 2010;45(6):586-8
3. Alekseeva RV. Development of manufacturing technology of the special wine Portwein from perspective sorts of grapes. Dissertation (in Russian). Krasnodar: Kuban Technological University, 2009
4. Blagoz AR, Ageeva NM. Manufacturing of Calvados in the Republic of Adygea (in Russian). Wine-making and Viticulture (a magazine issued by the Publishing House “Food Industry”) 2007;(5):16-7
5. Kruchina E, Shtyrlin M, Sogoyan K. Crimean wines (in Russian). Moscow: Izdatelstvo Zhigulskogo, 2004